Trees - Planting - Management

Notch Planting - (Only suitable for small (under 1m) bare rooted transplants and whips with compact root systems.)

• If the ground is covered by grass, it is beneficial to remove an area about 45cm (18" inches) square removing the top 5cm. (2 inches), then
• Cut two deep notches into the ground at right angles, to form an "L" shape (seen from above) and leave the spade in the second cut. (Fig. 1)
• Lift up the flap of earth with a twisting action, place tree in the space while carefully inserting and pushing down on all the roots behind the spade. (Fig. 2)
• Gently pull the plant up until the root collar is at ground level in the corner of the notch.
• Withdraw the spade and close the notch by treading firmly, ensuring that the plant remains in a vertical position.

Pit Planting - (Suitable for all sizes of trees, bare rooted or container)

• Dig a hole, which is substantially bigger than the spread and depth of roots on the tree to be planted. (Fig. 3)
• Break up and loosen the bottom and sides of the hole, to improve drainage and to encourage future root development. This is especially important in heavy soils.
• If support is necessary, drive a stake into the base of the pit so that it will be on the prevailing windward side of the tree.
• Position the tree so that the ground level at the stem will correspond to that at which it was growing in the nursery, this can be recognised by a dark mark left on the tree at ground level.
• Back fill the pit preferably with help to hold the tree in position. (Fig 4)
• Firm down the soil around the roots by treading. It is appropriate to mix in fertiliser and or mulch if available with the back fill. (Fig.5)
• Water the pit area well. (Fig. 6)

Staking and Support

Staking is basically unnatural and can give rise to maintenance problems. It should therefore be avoided wherever possible by planting smaller trees/whips, which can grow themselves a firm rooted footing in the ground. If the planting of large trees (2metres +) is proposed, the root system must be held in place until it can become sufficiently established to provide its own anchorage. In most cases, this can be achieved by using a simple short stake extending out of the ground no higher than one third of the height of the tree. When planting large containerised trees, it may not be possible to position a stake close to the stem. In this situation, two or more stakes can be placed round the edge of the root ball and the tree held upright between them by using heavy duty ties or by strapping to a connecting cross timber . (Fig 7)

Where to plant trees

In urban and fringe areas, trees can be planted on appropriate areas, such as derelict land, industrial estates, public open spaces, playing fields and highway verges. Planting within private gardens can also be of value to local amenity and wildlife as well as personal environmental enhancement. It is important to maintain a minimum distance between walls/buildings and trees. Remember trees grow and need space, air and room to expand their root system.

Examples are:

• 5metres (16ft) - Common Hawthorn - Field Maple - Blackthorn - Bird Cherry - Rowan - Hornbeam - Holly - Hazel - Crabapple
• 6metres (20ft) - Alder - Plum-leaved Hawthorn - Silver Birch - Ornamentals - Fruit
• 10metres (33ft) - Oak - Conifers/Pine - Lime - Beech - Chestnut - Willow - Ash - Sycamore

In the countryside, trees can be planted on land not needed for agriculture or where they will not interfere with farming operations. Such sites may include field corners and steep banks, near to farm buildings and adjacent to watercourses or hedges. Within established woodland or parkland and on wide roadside verges are other examples where planting is appropriate.

Maintenance

After-care is essential for all species, sizes and types of tree, particularly in the first few seasons. If staked, ties should be checked every six months and removed along with the stake when the tree has become sturdy . Appropriate pruning (early spring) is important to develop the tree shape (crown and spread). Removal of epicormic growth (at the base and lower half of the stem) will divert growth effort where it is needed - the crown. Annual mulch in autumn will enrich the soil and provide frost cover particularly in the early years.

Protection

In most situations, newly planted trees need some sort of protection against browsing wild animals, pets, children, mowers and strimmers! Tree Shelters are translucent tubes that protect the tree in its early stages and act as a mini-greenhouse, enhancing growth. Rabbit Guards are loosely coiled plastic tubes, which are easily fitted around the base of the stem. If there is construction development near established trees, such as house extensions, protective temporary fencing should be erected in line with the extent of the crown spread. No machinery, storage or fires should be within this area in order to protect the roots. Remove grass and weeds close to the stem/trunk by hand or shears. Strimmers or weed killer should not be used around the base of trees, they can damage and kill them.

Remember the root system extends as wide as the crown spread. Never raise soil levels around the base of a tree or create artificial features such as a rockery. These can create "bark ringing" which will kill the tree. With paving, always maintain a significant area of open earth for air and water. Porous materials like gravel are OK but not Limestone chippings as these will alter the mineral levels in the soil.

The contact information below may be used to enquire about trees in Tameside. Please note that we are unable to answer enquiries or provide advice on issues outside of Tameside.

Contact Information
Send us a Message	Housing, Planning and Economic Regeneration Tameside MBC Council Offices Wellington Road Ashton under Lyne OL6 6DL  View local map
0161 342 3133
0161 342 2837